SINDHUDURG

The name "Sindhudurg" originates from the Marathi language, combining two words: "Sindhu," which means sea or ocean, specifically referring to the Arabian Sea that borders the district, and "Durg," meaning fort. Therefore, "Sindhudurg" translates to "Fort on the Sea," aptly reflecting the region's historical significance. This is particularly evident in the Sindhudurg Fort, constructed by Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj in the 17th century to safeguard the coastline from invasions.

The waves crashed along the shore as Divya made her way through the narrow streets of the fishing village. The salty air clung to everything: a constant reminder of the sea that shaped their lives. As she neared the village Mandir, loud voices echoed through the lanes. Curious, Divya slipped inside. The small hall was packed with fishermen from nearby villages, all in the middle of a heated argument.

At the centre sat a group of fishermen accused of breaking the village’s unwritten rules. They had started using a new kind of fishing net called the mini-purse seine. Divya listened closely. The net worked well as it brought in huge catches, but it was causing problems. It flooded the markets with too much of one type of fish, lowering prices for everyone. Worse, it caught baby fish too, threatening the future of their fishing grounds.

The older fishermen shook their heads, remembering when the waters were full of fish like sea catfish. They preferred traditional nets, which were safer for the environment and kept the community working together. Suddenly, a young fisherman stood up. “You know the rules—don’t pretend you don’t!” he shouted at the accused. Divya was surprised. These fishermen had their own system of self-governance—meetings, decisions, even punishments for breaking rules.

As the arguments continued, Divya realised something important. These fishermen weren’t the problem; they were the solution. In a country where most fisheries were already overfished, this village was fighting to protect its waters.

This wasn’t just a fight about nets. It was a fight for their future. Standing in that mandir, Divya saw hope for change.

The beautiful coastal region of present-day Sindhudurg has a history that stretches back to ancient times. It is said that the Pandavas, the legendary heroes of the Mahabharata, once journeyed through these lush hills and seaside villages. The people of Konkan welcomed them with warmth and generosity.

One notable ruler of the time was Raja Veerat Ray, king of this coastal kingdom. When the Pandavas arrived, he offered them shelter and support. Admiring their courage and values, Raja Veerat Ray later joined them in the great battle of Kurukshetra against the Kauravas.

Over the centuries, Sindhudurg’s strategic coastal location attracted many powerful rulers. The Mauryas, the Nalas, and later the Silaharas all left their mark here. The Silaharas, who once ruled from Goa, shifted their capital to places like Ratnagiri and Kharepatan to strengthen their hold over the region.

But by the 16th century, new threats emerged. The Portuguese, eager to expand their empire, set their sights on the Konkan coast.

Their plans were soon challenged by the rise of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. To defend his people and territory, Shivaji ordered the construction of a mighty sea fort-Sindhudurg, meaning “Sea Fort.” Built between 1664 and 1667, perhaps this fort became a powerful measure of Maratha resilience. Its hidden entrances and towering walls stood firm against both the waves of the Arabian Sea and the ambitions of foreign powers, safeguarding the Konkan coast for generations to come.

In Sindhudurg, where the Konkan coast meets the Arabian Sea, a few villages are known for their unusual customs, particularly Chindar, Achara, and Vaigani. These villages practice a unique tradition called “Gav-palan”, meaning “running away from the village”. This ceremony is performed every three years over three days and three nights.

During Gav-palan, entire families leave their homes, taking along their animals, pets, food, and firewood to sustain them for the duration. They lock their houses and place a coconut leaf mat at the entrance to signal that no living being remains inside. For three days, the village turns into a ghost town: silent, empty, and abandoned.

The origin of this practice lies in an old story. Long ago, an evil spirit in the form of a varaha (wild boar) began terrorising the people. It destroyed crops, killed villagers, and left the community in despair. Eventually, most of the villagers fled, except for an elderly woman who was too frail to leave.

One night, while hunting in the jungle, a man and his nephew lost their way and stumbled upon her home. She told them about the terrifying varaha. Determined to save the village, the uncle (mama) and nephew confronted the creature and eventually killed it. They decided to settle there, and to this day, Chindar is sometimes referred to as Mama-bhachyache Gaav, “the village of the uncle and nephew.”

But the Varaha had been the leader of many bhoots and pishachas: spirits and the undead. These beings went to the gramdevta, Shri Ravalnath, asking where they should go now that their leader was gone. Ravalnath struck a deal with them: for three days and nights every three years, the villagers would vacate the land, allowing the spirits to inhabit it. This agreement, blessed by Ravalnath, brought peace to the area.

After the three days, another ritual called Dev-palan “running towards the devta", takes place. Village elders, pandits, and the vaani (medium) visit Ravalnath’s Mandir to formally request permission to return. Once the devta agrees, the vaani sprints toward the village boundary, followed by the village head, priests, and tantriks. This act of returning is Dev-palan.

For the next three days, the village head consults Ravalnath, through the vaani, about important matters of village life, ensuring the community’s well-being with the devta’s blessings. What began as an act of survival has become a lively community tradition. Families gather, friends reunite, and for three days and nights, they share games, songs, and special meals which blend ancient beliefs with celebration.

There was once a kingdom known as Sawantwadi. Its king, said to be a wise and just ruler, had delivered prosperity to his subjects. Unfortunately, his time on Earth came to an end, and he left behind his Rani, Khem Sawant Bhonsle.

With a sorrowful heart, Rani Khem Sawant Bhonsle took on the leadership role. Though she had never led troops into battle before, she was aware that her kingdom would face several threats from enemy kingdoms and local chieftains looking to capitalise on the power change.

The Rani learned about a formidable invader moving towards Sawantwadi, determined to conquer the area and its people. The Rani was determined that she would not allow her kingdom to fall without a struggle. Rani Khem Sawant Bhonsle assembled her most trusted advisors and developed a clever strategy. She directed her warriors to place secret traps and ambushes along the invader's path, carefully disguising them from sight. As the invading army approached, the Rani's men sprung their carefully planned traps, catching the enemy off guard and throwing them into confusion.

The invader's army, bruised and confused, found itself unable to advance. Rani Khem Sawant Bhonsle, leading her men with steadfast resolve, launched a victorious counterattack, driving the invaders back and earning a stunning triumph for her kingdom.