MUMBAI

Mumbai City is a region that few would associate with farming today. As the city’s identity becomes increasingly tied to urbanization, the pastoral lifestyle linked to agriculture seems a distant memory. 

Yet, Mumbai has a deep agricultural history. Many localities now occupied by industries and high-rise buildings were once rich agricultural lands, home to a wide range of crops. Communities like the Agris, Kunbis, and Pathare Prabhus, along with other long-standing residents, were deeply involved in farming. Though traditional farming has largely faded, the emergence of agri-tech businesses signals a renewed interest in the sector, suggesting that agriculture’s legacy may still have a place in Mumbai’s future.

Before the high-rise buildings and sprawling urban landscape of Mumbai became the city's defining features, much of what is now the island’s core was once a fertile expanse, home to farms and orchards. The city’s agricultural past, as chronicled in historical records like the gazetteers, offers a fascinating look at a time when a wide variety of crops – from rice to fruits – thrived across the land.

In the Bombay Gazetteer (1909), S. Edwardes paints a vivid picture of a "wide and level plain dotted with palm groves and tamarind trees," where communities such as the Bhadaris and Agris lived in close connection with nature. Malabar Hill, known for its "groves and orchards of jack trees, bars, and ber trees," was another thriving agricultural hub. Meanwhile, areas like Sewri and Rauli were home to salt pans, while Matunga was entirely dedicated to rice cultivation, emphasizing the island’s agricultural diversity.

Among the most prominent agricultural regions described by Edwardes was Mahim, where the kasba (town area) boasted 70,000 coconut palms alongside other palm trees. This was not merely a local farming effort but also a commercial enterprise, with parts of the land owned by British companies. In Mazgaon, mango orchards flourished, with the area’s mangoes so highly regarded that they found their way to Emperor Shah Jahan’s dining table. These mangoes even caught the attention of Thomas Moore in his Lalla Rookh (1819), where the poet muses, “To eat any mangoes but those of Mazagong was, of course, impossible."

According to the Greater Bombay District Gazetteer (1986-87), the mangoes were harvested twice a year – once in May and again in December. It is recorded that the island and its suburban districts were abundant with coconut palms, rice fields, and a range of fruits and vegetables. Rice became the island’s staple crop, while coconut plantations spread across areas like Sion, Mahim, Dadar, and Worli by the early 20th century.

Interestingly, while the British administration is often associated with the commercialization and rapid urbanization that characterize modern Mumbai, many may not know that they also worked diligently to develop and expand agriculture during the early days of their governance.  A significant part of Mumbai’s agricultural expansion or rather commercialization, came from the British-led process of land reclamation, which turned flood-prone or unproductive areas into fertile, cultivable land.

It is noted in the Gazetteer (1986-87) that when the British took control of Mumbai in 1665 and leased it to the East India Company in 1668, agricultural development became a key focus. By 1679, officials had urged the Surat Council to survey and drain uncultivated lands to make them suitable for farming. Over the next century, large portions of the island’s flood-prone land were successfully reclaimed for agricultural use.

It is said that a significant chapter in Mumbai’s agricultural history unfolded with the completion of the Hornby Vellard project in the 19th century. In 1782, Governor William Hornby began constructing a seawall to block the Worli Creek, effectively preventing flooding in the city’s low-lying areas. This ambitious project opened up large tracts of land, particularly between Mahalaxmi and Mazgaon to the east, and Mahim Creek to the north, for reclamation. Once drained, these lands quickly became fertile grounds for agriculture, with crops such as rice, coconuts, and vegetables flourishing. Bellasis Road, which runs from Nagpada Junction to Mumbai Central Station, is said to have once passed through rich rice fields, serving as a testament to this agricultural expansion.

This dual development—funding both urban growth and agricultural expansion—lasted until the 19th century. However, as industries and commerce took root, urbanization eventually overtook the agricultural lands, a trend that accelerated as the city evolved.

Yet, despite the city’s rapid transformation, glimpses of Mumbai’s agricultural heritage remain embedded in its very fabric. The names of localities such as Kele Wadi (Banana Garden), Tad Wadi (Tamarind Garden), Phanas Wadi (Jackfruit Garden), Ambe Wadi (Mango Garden), Naral Wadi (Coconut Garden), and Kande Wadi (Onion Garden) serve as subtle reminders of the orchards and fields that once thrived there. As S. Edwardes notes in his exploration of the etymology of Mumbai’s localities, “Umbar Khadi” is derived from 'Umbar' (fig tree), while Chinchpokli reflects the presence of tamarind trees. Many of these names carry with them the environmental and rural characteristics of a bygone Mumbai, preserving the city’s agricultural heritage in its nomenclature.

Today, the agricultural landscape that once defined much of Mumbai has been largely swallowed up by urban sprawl. Yet, these quiet traces of the city’s past continue to offer a window into a time when farms and orchards flourished where concrete now reigns.

Still, even as Mumbai’s transformation into a sprawling urban hub continues and its agrarian past fades into the background, it is perhaps the farming communities that once thrived here who still carry a loud and undeniable legacy of the city’s agricultural history. Among the most prominent of these are the Bhandaris, East Indians, Kunbis, and Agris, whose connection to farming was not just an occupation, but a hereditary tradition passed down through generations.

Edwardes, in his historical accounts, paints a vivid picture of the Bhandaris, describing them as people who were primarily divided into two roles: warriors or toddy-tappers. The toddy tappers, responsible for harvesting sap from palm trees, were crucial to the city’s coconut industry, once a cornerstone of Mumbai's agrarian economy. Similarly, the Agris, though most closely associated with salt farming, also cultivated a wide range of crops, maintaining a strong bond with agriculture throughout their history.

The East Indians, perhaps being among the oldest agriculturalist communities in Mumbai, have an identity deeply rooted in the land they once farmed. These native communities, who became Roman Catholics during the Portuguese rule, were once integral to the city’s agrarian landscape. The Greater Bombay District Gazetteer describes them as “the bulk of the proprietors and cultivators in Bombay,” with their agricultural lands primarily used for coconut groves, rice fields, and onion farms.

Another community with fascinating agricultural ties is the Panchkalshis. Local lore traces their arrival in Mumbai to Raja Bimb of the Bimba dynasty, whose capital was believed to be in Mahim. While not initially a farming community, the Panchkalshis’ connection to agriculture developed over time. Edwardes, in his account, notes that, under Portuguese and later Muslim rule, the Panchkalshis lost their political power and turned their attention to agriculture, dairy farming, and boat-building. Among them, the Vadvals—possibly a sub-community—were particularly renowned for tending orchards and gardens. However, this entanglement with farming was said to be short-lived, as political and social shifts gradually weakened their ties to farming.

Edwardes (1909) further notes that with the arrival of the British, the Panchkalshis lost much of their ancestral lands, forcing many to turn to carpentry or sutari work for survival. He writes that “under the religious persecution for which the Portuguese became notorious,” many Prabhus, Panchkalshis, and Brahmins migrated to regions like Uran, Pen, and Panvel in the Raigad district. As time passed and the economy evolved, many sought jobs in the railways or clerical positions, marking a clear shift away from agriculture, at least within the confines of Mumbai City.

At the same time, the arrival of Europeans saw new agricultural players entering the scene. Edwardes refers to the “Konkani Muhammedans,” a group from Ratnagiri and Thane, who not only engaged in trade and seafaring but also acquired land from the Portuguese. They established large coconut plantations in areas like Girgaon, Dadar, and Mahim, marking a shift in the city’s agricultural landscape.

Today, many of these communities share a common experience of alienation from the land they once farmed. This sense of disconnection — a painful legacy of colonial and post-independence policies — remains a pressing issue for many. The loss of their agricultural lands, often seized through coercion or force, has left a lasting impact on their identity. Even today, the effects of this dispossession are keenly felt in contemporary Mumbai. The rapid urbanization that has reshaped the city has left these once-thriving farming communities grappling with the loss of their heritage.

As Mumbai’s urban transformation continues, the story of these farming communities remains one of both loss and resilience. The land that was once intricately linked to their cultural identity is steadily slipping beyond their reach. In a city that prides itself as the “city of migrants,” many of its oldest inhabitants feel increasingly displaced. Yet, their history persists—preserved through generations in oral traditions and embodied in their ongoing fight for recognition and preservation amid the city’s relentless change.

While the farmlands and farmers of the past have largely been overtaken by the ever-changing landscape of Mumbai, agriculture has managed to persist in some form. Despite Mumbai’s image as a fully urbanized city, farming still plays a role in its fabric, albeit on a much smaller scale.

This reality has often come as a surprise to many. Alok Deshpande, in The Hindu article (2017), famously remarked that “Mumbai has farmers, but no farmland,” highlighting a paradox that came into sharper focus when Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis shared a district-wise breakdown of farmers eligible for a state loan waiver. The figures revealed 694 farmers in Mumbai city and 119 in the suburbs, despite the city having little agricultural land left. As the article highlights, even the government struggled to explain how this was possible, prompting many, including Fadnavis, to express their astonishment at the persistence of farming in such a heavily urbanized environment.

Intriguingly, as Mumbai evolves, so too does its approach to farming. With the rise of technology and the growing agritech sector, agriculture in the city has found new ways to thrive. These innovations are reshaping the future of farming, providing fresh opportunities to sustain agricultural practices even in the heart of a metropolis.

One organization leading this transformation is Fresh & Local, a Mumbai-based initiative dedicated to promoting urban farming. Founded by Adrienne Thadani, who was inspired by her passion for growing her food, the organization aims to bring fresh, locally-grown produce to the city’s residents while integrating farming into Mumbai’s urban fabric.

A start-up in urban agriculture, Fresh & Local works with various establishments to create innovative farming projects. Its most notable initiatives include establishing kitchen gardens at locations such as Breach Candy Hospital and even setting up a flyover farm on a rooftop in South Mumbai. These projects demonstrate the diverse ways urban farming can be implemented within the city, making it both practical and sustainable.

Additionally, according to a Food Tank article, Fresh & Local plans to open a series of urban farming stores across Mumbai that will supply aspiring urban farmers with tools, seeds, eco-friendly pots, and natural fertilizers. These efforts reflect a broader trend of integrating farming into everyday life and making it accessible for those in the city interested in growing their food.

In Mumbai, a city renowned for its bustling industries and financial hubs, the intersection of technology and agriculture may seem unlikely. However, Salam Kisan, an agritech startup founded by Dhanashri Mandhani, a young entrepreneur, in 2022, is proving that the tech industry and agriculture can come together.

Headquartered in Nariman Point, Salam Kisan focuses on empowering farmers, particularly those with smaller land holdings, by providing a range of services aimed at enhancing agricultural productivity. The company offers drone-based soil testing, precision farming, and a digital marketplace that connects farmers with the necessary agricultural inputs and outputs. With the aid of cutting-edge technologies such as artificial intelligence, Salam Kisan offers farmers data-driven insights that may help them navigate the unpredictable challenges posed by climate change and erratic weather patterns.

Today, according to news reports, the company is working with over 68,000 farmers across Maharashtra. Through AI-powered tools like the AI Crop Calendar and post-harvest markets, Salam Kisan is helping to improve both productivity and profitability.

In line with the government’s Drone Didi and Drone Swaraj initiatives, Salam Kisan is playing a key role in empowering rural women and youth through drone technology. According to an Outlook article, even before Prime Minister Narendra Modi's Drone Didi initiative captured national attention, Salam Kisan had already made significant strides. In August 2023, the company trained Linta Shelke Waghmare from Wardha, Vidarbha, as India’s second-ever and Maharashtra’s first female drone pilot.

Through its Capacity Building Program, Salam Kisan continues to equip rural women and youth with the skills needed for modern agriculture. This initiative demonstrates the potential of public-private partnerships in creating a lasting social impact, contributing to the empowerment of women and the transformation of India’s agricultural landscape.

In such a manner, the agricultural landscape of Mumbai reflects both its traditional and modern aspects. However, it is important to recognize and preserve the old, ensuring it is not forgotten amidst the rise of new developments.